The UN Green Line in Nicosia, Cyprus

Nicosia (Lefkosia if you’re Greek and Lefkosa if you’re Turkish) is the world’s only divided capital city.
The political problems on Cyprus mean that the city is split in two, with the south controlled by the internationally-recognised Republic of Cyprus. The north is under the control of the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, recognised only by Turkey.
Between the two, there is a narrow buffer zone under the control of the United Nations. This strip crosses the entire island and is known as the Attila Line elsewhere, and the Green Line in Nicosia.It’s a sad sight, but a fascinating one.
It’s possible to walk along the streets that are by the side of the Green Line – as long as you don’t go taking pictures of the army checkpoints, barbed wire and painted oil barrels.
There are some signs of life – crumbling houses just outside the line have occasionally been converted into workshops. On the whole, however, the Green Line is eerily abandoned.
Take a peek over the military posts, and it is possible to see what would have been the city’s most upmarket buildings. But since the Greek sponsored coup and Turkish invasion in 1974, the buildings have remained untouched.
Walking along the Green Line, therefore, offers a sombre but fascinating look into history.
The one place where you can cross within the city’s Venetian walls – and the difference between the two sides is instantly noticeable – is at Ledra Street. Hopefully, in future, the two communities can resolve their differences and the Green Line will be no more.

Getting there
Nearest international airport: Larnaka International Airport is Cyprus’ main point of entry.
By public transport: By taxi, it’s about 45 minutes from Larnaka airport to Nicosia. Regular buses are available from the centre of Larnaka, however.

Famagusta look-out in Deryneia, Cyprus

One of the tragedies of Cyprus’ division in 1974 was that so many people had to abandon their homes.
Nowhere is this more obvious than in Famagusta, on the Turkish-controlled northern side of the island.
Before the Greek-sponsored coup and Turkish invasion in 1974, Famagusta was the tourism capital of Cyprus. This can still be seen from the big, run-down hotels around the beaches.
But when the island became divided, most of the Greek Cypriots abandoned their homes. Much of Famagusta was abandoned, and a lot of it – particularly the Varosia area – is now in the UN buffer zone.
It’s still possible to visit what was once a vibrant city, but it’s just as chilling to look out over it from Deryneia on the southern side of the UN’s Atilla Line.
The best viewpoint is in the self-styled ‘Last House in Deryneia’. It’s owned by Annita Georgiou, who has a small shop full of newspaper clippings about the Cyprus Problem.
It’s not difficult to see which side of the fence she falls on – words on the walls refer to a ‘Hitlerite regime’, ‘cultural destruction’ and ‘Turkish terrorists’.
Annita is happy to hand out a pair of binoculars so that visitors can go up to the viewing platform on the roof and look out into the dead zone. Famagusta is an eerie, sorry sight.
Down below, just before the watchtowers and barbed wire, is a slogan painted onto concrete. It says: “If your house was in walking distance, but armed troops restricted your access, would you accept it?”

Getting to Deryneia, Cyprus

Nearest international airport: The main airport on Cyprus is at Larnaca, to the south-west of Deryneia.
Using public transport: A taxi or a hire car is needed, unfortunately.

British Sovereign Base areas in Cyprus - Akrotiri and Dhekelia

The Mediterranean island of Cyprus is unusual in that it is divided not two, but three ways. Many people know about the division between the Republic of Cyprus and the Turkish-controlled northern sector of the island, but two significant chunks of Cyprus are still under the control of the British military. These are the British Sovereign Base Areas.
Akrotiri and Dhekelia were kept by Britain when Cyprus became independent in 1960, partly because of their key strategic location near the Middle East.
Neither is particularly a tourist attraction – army types aren’t renowned for their love of visitors looking for sun loungers – but it is possible to drive through these geographical oddities.
Akrotiri, near Limassol, is hardly on anyone’s way to anywhere, but most tourists will end up going through Dhekelia. The Sovereign Base Area lies between the airport at Larnaca and the major tourist areas of Paralimni, Protaras and Agia Napa.
Aside from the odd bit of barbed wire and sinister-looking building, there’s very little to see, but the fishing villages on the eastern outskirts are quite cute.
Interestingly, Dhekelia contains two Cypriot villages – Xylotombou and Ormidhia – that are completely cut off from the rest of the country.

Getting to the British Sovereign Base Areas
Nearest International Airport: Larnaca (or Larnaka as it is now officially known).
Using public transport: Public buses go through Dhekelia on their way to Paralimni and Agia Napa from Larnaca.