Those authoritarian chaps at Guinness World Records have attempted to silence the bickering over who gets the honour of being dubbed the world’s oldest restaurant, and have declared the Casa Botin in Madrid, Spain the winner.
Tucked away on Calle de Cuchilleros near the main square in the Spanish capital, this has become something of a tourist trap, but it has been open since 1725 for a very good reason.
Whilst most diners are visitors, it is not one of those places that the locals conspicuously avoid because the food isn’t up to scratch.
Quite the contrary, in fact, with the house speciality of roast suckling pig reputed to border on the divine and well worth the few extra Euros you’ll pay for location and gimmick factor.
More information: Casa Botin
Showing posts with label food and drink. Show all posts
Showing posts with label food and drink. Show all posts
Saturday, 11 October 2008
Friday, 3 October 2008
World’s Greatest Pub – Delirium Café in Brussels, Belgium
To the beer drinker, Delirium Café in Brussels is as close an approximation to paradise as they will ever find.
The reason for this can be found in the large catalogue, weighing the wooden panelling of the table down like it’s a housebrick, or more promptly, by looking at the certificate behind the unhurried barmaid.
It’s from Guinness World Records, and it proudly proclaims that the Delirium has more beers available than any other establishment in the whole world. And that would be a gigantic 2,004 beers at any time. In other words, it’s the world’s greatest pub.
As the English chap plonked on the barside stool is keen to point out, this is a minimum of 2,004. On the list there are another 500, some of which may be out of stock at times due to transport hiccups in the Democratic Republic of Congo and the likes.
A flick through the catalogue is all it takes to realise that this is not your standard Belgian Beer Café. Whilst Belgium is represented in fine style, with every strength, brewing technique and fruit flavouring imaginable, the round-the-world trip is astonishing. Benin, Armenia, Bolivia, Guadaloupe, The Faroe Islands, Namibia, Mongolia, Tahiti… Every corner of the globe is covered, and the temptation to drink your way round it is only dulled by the prices of those obscure brews from Nepal.
Getting to the Delirium Café in Brussels, Belgium
Nearest International Airport: Brussels
Walking: The Delirium is the sort of place you’ll only find if you’re specifically looking for it, or are completely and utterly lost. It’s tucked away on a little cul-de-sac alley (Impasse de la Fidélité) near Grand Place, almost imperceptible as you walk past, off a maze of narrow, restaurant-lined streets, where there is barely room for people to walk two abreast (Rue de Bouchers).
More information: Delirium Café
The reason for this can be found in the large catalogue, weighing the wooden panelling of the table down like it’s a housebrick, or more promptly, by looking at the certificate behind the unhurried barmaid.
It’s from Guinness World Records, and it proudly proclaims that the Delirium has more beers available than any other establishment in the whole world. And that would be a gigantic 2,004 beers at any time. In other words, it’s the world’s greatest pub.
As the English chap plonked on the barside stool is keen to point out, this is a minimum of 2,004. On the list there are another 500, some of which may be out of stock at times due to transport hiccups in the Democratic Republic of Congo and the likes.
A flick through the catalogue is all it takes to realise that this is not your standard Belgian Beer Café. Whilst Belgium is represented in fine style, with every strength, brewing technique and fruit flavouring imaginable, the round-the-world trip is astonishing. Benin, Armenia, Bolivia, Guadaloupe, The Faroe Islands, Namibia, Mongolia, Tahiti… Every corner of the globe is covered, and the temptation to drink your way round it is only dulled by the prices of those obscure brews from Nepal.
Getting to the Delirium Café in Brussels, Belgium
Nearest International Airport: Brussels
Walking: The Delirium is the sort of place you’ll only find if you’re specifically looking for it, or are completely and utterly lost. It’s tucked away on a little cul-de-sac alley (Impasse de la Fidélité) near Grand Place, almost imperceptible as you walk past, off a maze of narrow, restaurant-lined streets, where there is barely room for people to walk two abreast (Rue de Bouchers).
More information: Delirium Café
Friday, 26 September 2008
Daly Waters Pub in Australia’s Northern Territory
Remember to stop at the traffic lights
The Northern Territory town of Daly Waters, miles from anywhere, has a big history, an iconic pub and a very irritating set of traffic lights.
We’ve all been there. Trapped at a red light for seemingly decades for no apparent reason, tapping on the steering wheel in an increasing frenzy of impatience and silently berating the idiot who is in charge of traffic flow.
Well, if the whole waiting at the lights thing winds you up, then it’s probably best to avoid the Northern Territory town of Daly Waters. Outside the local pub is what the residents proudly boast is the world’s most remote set of traffic lights. You’ve got to give them that – there probably isn’t another one for at least 500km in any direction, and the chances of there being enough traffic to cause a nasty snarl up at the crossroads is even more remote. No, congestion control and accident prevention aren’t the priorities in this little backwater; it’s all about entertainment. Much to the howling amusement of those who set it up, the lights are permanently set to red in an attempt to trick as many visitors as possible as they foolishly slow down and wait for green. It is, quite literally, a tourist trap.
World famous pub
The town is most famous for its pub, and quite rightly so. It is truly something special, and is covered in what can only be described as tat from across the world. Business cards, postcards, foreign currency, passport photographs, driving licences… By the looks of it, most that have visited have left something behind, and it has been put up on the walls, crammed between bus tickets, train passes and rather unpleasant-looking underwear. Well, you wouldn’t leave your best pair behind, would you? Even so, it’s so dusty, shapeless and discoloured that you’d struggle to believe anyone would wear in the first place.
Visitors from Chile to Berlin
That so much from around the world has come together in such a remote place is staggering. Student cards from Chile mix with Berlin underground tickets and scenic photos of Galway countryside sit alongside rather less scenic pictures of maple leaf tattoos on a Canadian bottom. You could spend hours strolling around, reading everything, and notching up the nationalities. If you ever fancy a quick round-the-world trip, or a spot of identity fraud, then this is the place to come. During the day, the tour buses stop by, and another set of visitors from around the world gets to leave their mark. The locals look on somewhat bemused but they’ve long since got used to the strange procession of litterbug foreigners. It’s almost as entertaining as watching the people at the lights
Big barbecue and fresh barramundi
The evening is when the Daly Waters pub really comes into its own, though. That’s when the big barbie comes out and new-fangled things such as vegetarianism are mercilessly shunned. Salad is what food eats in this neck of the woods, although there will be a sprinkling of it available. Frankly you don’t need lettuce leaves when the steaks are top quality and the barramundi is fresh out of the river. Once you’ve tasted it, you won’t really care too much about the traffic anyway.
Getting to The Daly Waters pub
Nearest International Airport: Darwin, but that’s a fair trek.
Using public transport: Forget it – either rent a car or join a tour between Darwin and Alice Springs. Daly Waters is 7km off the Stuart Highway, 275km south of Katherine.
More information: Daly Waters Pub
The Northern Territory town of Daly Waters, miles from anywhere, has a big history, an iconic pub and a very irritating set of traffic lights.
We’ve all been there. Trapped at a red light for seemingly decades for no apparent reason, tapping on the steering wheel in an increasing frenzy of impatience and silently berating the idiot who is in charge of traffic flow.
Well, if the whole waiting at the lights thing winds you up, then it’s probably best to avoid the Northern Territory town of Daly Waters. Outside the local pub is what the residents proudly boast is the world’s most remote set of traffic lights. You’ve got to give them that – there probably isn’t another one for at least 500km in any direction, and the chances of there being enough traffic to cause a nasty snarl up at the crossroads is even more remote. No, congestion control and accident prevention aren’t the priorities in this little backwater; it’s all about entertainment. Much to the howling amusement of those who set it up, the lights are permanently set to red in an attempt to trick as many visitors as possible as they foolishly slow down and wait for green. It is, quite literally, a tourist trap.
World famous pub
The town is most famous for its pub, and quite rightly so. It is truly something special, and is covered in what can only be described as tat from across the world. Business cards, postcards, foreign currency, passport photographs, driving licences… By the looks of it, most that have visited have left something behind, and it has been put up on the walls, crammed between bus tickets, train passes and rather unpleasant-looking underwear. Well, you wouldn’t leave your best pair behind, would you? Even so, it’s so dusty, shapeless and discoloured that you’d struggle to believe anyone would wear in the first place.
Visitors from Chile to Berlin
That so much from around the world has come together in such a remote place is staggering. Student cards from Chile mix with Berlin underground tickets and scenic photos of Galway countryside sit alongside rather less scenic pictures of maple leaf tattoos on a Canadian bottom. You could spend hours strolling around, reading everything, and notching up the nationalities. If you ever fancy a quick round-the-world trip, or a spot of identity fraud, then this is the place to come. During the day, the tour buses stop by, and another set of visitors from around the world gets to leave their mark. The locals look on somewhat bemused but they’ve long since got used to the strange procession of litterbug foreigners. It’s almost as entertaining as watching the people at the lights
Big barbecue and fresh barramundi
The evening is when the Daly Waters pub really comes into its own, though. That’s when the big barbie comes out and new-fangled things such as vegetarianism are mercilessly shunned. Salad is what food eats in this neck of the woods, although there will be a sprinkling of it available. Frankly you don’t need lettuce leaves when the steaks are top quality and the barramundi is fresh out of the river. Once you’ve tasted it, you won’t really care too much about the traffic anyway.
Getting to The Daly Waters pub
Nearest International Airport: Darwin, but that’s a fair trek.
Using public transport: Forget it – either rent a car or join a tour between Darwin and Alice Springs. Daly Waters is 7km off the Stuart Highway, 275km south of Katherine.
More information: Daly Waters Pub
Thursday, 18 September 2008
Royal Winery in Vaduz, Liechtenstein
There is wine-tasting, and then there is wine-tasting in Vaduz, Liechtenstein. The tiny Alpine principality has the world’s smallest wine industry. There’s just the one winery, and that’s owned by the Prince of Liechtenstein.
According to United Nations figures, Liechtenstein produces just 80 tonnes of wine per year. For a sense of perspective, compare that to the five million churned out by France. Or, even better, the 77,000 and 45,000 produced by Algeria and Uzbekistan respectively.
Turn up any time outside of the summer, and it seems a ridiculous proposition. The vineyard is overrun by goats, and is in the foothills of some terribly large snow-covered mountains. Hardly the perfect terroir for viticulture...
But rock up at the Hofkellerei (the winery of the Princely Court) in Vaduz and you get to sample one of the most exclusive wines in the world for free. The pinot noir is sold only in Vaduz. And, believe it or not, it’s absolutely sensational.
Getting to Vaduz, Liechtenstein
Nearest international airport: Liechtenstein doesn’t have an airport, so the nearest is in Zurich, Switzerland.
Using public transport: Get the train from Zurich’s main railway station to Sargans or Buchs on the border. From there, a lime green post bus goes to Vaduz and stops near the Hofkellerei.
More details: Hofkellerei
According to United Nations figures, Liechtenstein produces just 80 tonnes of wine per year. For a sense of perspective, compare that to the five million churned out by France. Or, even better, the 77,000 and 45,000 produced by Algeria and Uzbekistan respectively.
Turn up any time outside of the summer, and it seems a ridiculous proposition. The vineyard is overrun by goats, and is in the foothills of some terribly large snow-covered mountains. Hardly the perfect terroir for viticulture...
But rock up at the Hofkellerei (the winery of the Princely Court) in Vaduz and you get to sample one of the most exclusive wines in the world for free. The pinot noir is sold only in Vaduz. And, believe it or not, it’s absolutely sensational.
Getting to Vaduz, Liechtenstein
Nearest international airport: Liechtenstein doesn’t have an airport, so the nearest is in Zurich, Switzerland.
Using public transport: Get the train from Zurich’s main railway station to Sargans or Buchs on the border. From there, a lime green post bus goes to Vaduz and stops near the Hofkellerei.
More details: Hofkellerei
Friday, 12 September 2008
The world’s oldest pub – Sean’s Bar in Athlone, Republic of Ireland
It’s a fairly time-honoured tradition that any pub with a cobweb and peeling paint will make spurious claims about its age in a bit to show just how authentic it is. Therefore, judging the world’s oldest pub is a nigh-on impossible task.
However, that establishment is largely thought to be within the British Isles, and Guinness World Records rates Sean’s Bar in Athlone, County Westmeath, Republic of Ireland as the most ancient.
The establishment claims to date back to AD900, and has remnants of bygone days scattered around the place to prove it. Just make sure you take a pinch of salt with your pint of stout.
Sean’s Bar can be found on Main Street, Athlone.
However, that establishment is largely thought to be within the British Isles, and Guinness World Records rates Sean’s Bar in Athlone, County Westmeath, Republic of Ireland as the most ancient.
The establishment claims to date back to AD900, and has remnants of bygone days scattered around the place to prove it. Just make sure you take a pinch of salt with your pint of stout.
Sean’s Bar can be found on Main Street, Athlone.
Sunday, 7 September 2008
Hobbit House bar in Manila, Philippines
Anyone who says they don’t fancy a jar or two in this bar is a complete liar... the Hobbit House in Manila is staffed entirely by midgets.
Just in case your conscience is twanging at the thought of this, don’t fret, it’s not some kind of exploitative venture cruelly targeted at diminutive Filipinos.
The Hobbit House was set up by the little people themselves in order to give themselves work, and it’s proved incredibly popular.
It has a reputation of being a somewhat smoky drinking den, and also has regular live music performances which see it turn into a somewhat sweaty, smoky drinking den. Previous acts include Little Richard and Heather Small. OK, so that last bit is a lie.
The Hobbit House can be found at 1801 A. Manibi Street, Manila, The Philippines.
Just in case your conscience is twanging at the thought of this, don’t fret, it’s not some kind of exploitative venture cruelly targeted at diminutive Filipinos.
The Hobbit House was set up by the little people themselves in order to give themselves work, and it’s proved incredibly popular.
It has a reputation of being a somewhat smoky drinking den, and also has regular live music performances which see it turn into a somewhat sweaty, smoky drinking den. Previous acts include Little Richard and Heather Small. OK, so that last bit is a lie.
The Hobbit House can be found at 1801 A. Manibi Street, Manila, The Philippines.
Friday, 5 September 2008
Clinic Bar, Clarke Quay, Singapore: Hospital theme bar
Sometimes wildly expensive drinks are worth it, purely for the comedy value. And nowhere is this more true than at Clinic in Singapore.
Inside an extremely extravagant indoor shopping and entertainment precinct at Clarke Quay, Clinic is Singapore’s premier (and only) hospital theme bar. And it takes things to almost tasteless extremes.
The cocktails are presented in various innovative manners — whether it's in a blood bag attached to a drip that you suck through a straw or test tubes, but they taste darn good. Shame they cost the GDP of a developing nation, really.
The most fun to be had, however, is with the seats. Instead of a boring old bar stool, you get hospital wheelchairs to whizz about on.
Now in a real hospital, this would the sort of behaviour that would invite some severe tutting and castigation from matronly nursing harridans, but here the staff just roll their eyes until a whole tableful of beers goes crashing over.
Just mind you don't bump into other patients, and you’ll be alright though.
Getting to Clinic Bar in Singapore
Nearest international airport: Singapore Changi.
Using public transport: Clinic is a short walk from Clarke Quay Station.
More information: Clinic bar
Inside an extremely extravagant indoor shopping and entertainment precinct at Clarke Quay, Clinic is Singapore’s premier (and only) hospital theme bar. And it takes things to almost tasteless extremes.
The cocktails are presented in various innovative manners — whether it's in a blood bag attached to a drip that you suck through a straw or test tubes, but they taste darn good. Shame they cost the GDP of a developing nation, really.
The most fun to be had, however, is with the seats. Instead of a boring old bar stool, you get hospital wheelchairs to whizz about on.
Now in a real hospital, this would the sort of behaviour that would invite some severe tutting and castigation from matronly nursing harridans, but here the staff just roll their eyes until a whole tableful of beers goes crashing over.
Just mind you don't bump into other patients, and you’ll be alright though.
Getting to Clinic Bar in Singapore
Nearest international airport: Singapore Changi.
Using public transport: Clinic is a short walk from Clarke Quay Station.
More information: Clinic bar
Monday, 1 September 2008
Green Hills Cafe in Chisinau, Moldova
It’s all very well having a couple of plants in the corner of the bar to add a natural feel, but Green Hills Café in Chisinau, the capital of Moldova, takes things to excess. There are billowing pot plants all over the place and the entire outside of the building is painted bright green.
Oh yes, and there are four trees growing in the middle of the cafe, reaching up through a fabric roof, which looks to all intents and purposes as though a giant’s mattress has been flopped on top of the walls.
Aside from this rather Midsummer Night’s Dream-esque setting, the food’s pretty good (and reasonably cheap compared to some of the places clearly aimed at Russian oil oligarchs). More to the point, it’s one of the best places to hang out at, people-watching, on Moldova’s most upmarket street.
Getting to the Green Hills Cafe in Chisinau, Moldova
Nearest international Airport: Chisinau International Airport.
Address: 77 Stefan cel Mare si Sfint street – Look for Green Hills Nistru. It’s smack bang in the centre of the city, so walking distance for travellers staying in a relatively central location.
Oh yes, and there are four trees growing in the middle of the cafe, reaching up through a fabric roof, which looks to all intents and purposes as though a giant’s mattress has been flopped on top of the walls.
Aside from this rather Midsummer Night’s Dream-esque setting, the food’s pretty good (and reasonably cheap compared to some of the places clearly aimed at Russian oil oligarchs). More to the point, it’s one of the best places to hang out at, people-watching, on Moldova’s most upmarket street.
Getting to the Green Hills Cafe in Chisinau, Moldova
Nearest international Airport: Chisinau International Airport.
Address: 77 Stefan cel Mare si Sfint street – Look for Green Hills Nistru. It’s smack bang in the centre of the city, so walking distance for travellers staying in a relatively central location.
Saturday, 30 August 2008
Saddle Ranch in Los Angeles, California
The Saddle Ranch Chop House is a hugely popular but completely incongruous hotspot on LA's hottest stretch of road – Sunset Strip. It may be surrounded by iconic clubs like the Chateau Marmont and Whiskey-A-Go-Go, as well as the joints where the Hollywood set and their beautiful companions hang out, but Saddle Ranch is unquestionably the most fun.
It has a Wild West theme, which has been done before and isn't all that wacky, but it has one important addition.
The highlight is the bucking bronco in the corner of the bar, and it chucks off emboldened drunks throughout the night, surrounded by raucous fans and ill-wishers. Everyone thinks it's a bad idea to start with, but after a couple of beers, can't wait to take it on. And doing so almost inevitably ends with complete loss of dignity.
Getting to Saddle Ranch Chop House in Los Angeles, California
Nearest International Airport: Los Angeles International Airport (LAX)
Using public transport: The bar is at 8371 Sunset Boulevard in West Hollywood. Buses number 2, 302 and 305 go past. But given that this is Los Angeles, it’s probably going to be far less painful to get a cab.
More information: Saddle Ranch website
It has a Wild West theme, which has been done before and isn't all that wacky, but it has one important addition.
The highlight is the bucking bronco in the corner of the bar, and it chucks off emboldened drunks throughout the night, surrounded by raucous fans and ill-wishers. Everyone thinks it's a bad idea to start with, but after a couple of beers, can't wait to take it on. And doing so almost inevitably ends with complete loss of dignity.
Getting to Saddle Ranch Chop House in Los Angeles, California
Nearest International Airport: Los Angeles International Airport (LAX)
Using public transport: The bar is at 8371 Sunset Boulevard in West Hollywood. Buses number 2, 302 and 305 go past. But given that this is Los Angeles, it’s probably going to be far less painful to get a cab.
More information: Saddle Ranch website
Elvis Bar at Glasgow Prestwick Airport, Scotland
The King was popular across the world, and it doesn’t take much for cheeseburger-munching aficionados to set up something on an Elvis theme.
But the Elvis Bar at Glasgow Prestwick is odd purely because of its location. Memphis or Las Vegas would make sense, but the departure lounge of a minor Scottish airport?
But no, there it is, decked out in King paraphernalia and driving the poor bar staff crazy by playing a non-stop Best Of. One thing’s for certain, the poor souls staffing the bar won’t have Suspicious Minds as their karaoke song of choice.
Bemused passengers sit there, waiting for their flight and wondering what the hell is going on. That is unless they take the time to read the small notice which explains that Prestwick Airport was the only place in the UK that Presley set foot in. Nothing tenuous about that, huh?
Still, it’s better than the ubiquitous Wetherspoons outlets found in most UK airports, so it can be saluted for that alone.
Getting there:
Nearest international airport: Um, no, we don’t really need this bit, do we?
More information: History of Glasgow Prestwick Airport
But the Elvis Bar at Glasgow Prestwick is odd purely because of its location. Memphis or Las Vegas would make sense, but the departure lounge of a minor Scottish airport?
But no, there it is, decked out in King paraphernalia and driving the poor bar staff crazy by playing a non-stop Best Of. One thing’s for certain, the poor souls staffing the bar won’t have Suspicious Minds as their karaoke song of choice.
Bemused passengers sit there, waiting for their flight and wondering what the hell is going on. That is unless they take the time to read the small notice which explains that Prestwick Airport was the only place in the UK that Presley set foot in. Nothing tenuous about that, huh?
Still, it’s better than the ubiquitous Wetherspoons outlets found in most UK airports, so it can be saluted for that alone.
Getting there:
Nearest international airport: Um, no, we don’t really need this bit, do we?
More information: History of Glasgow Prestwick Airport
Thursday, 28 August 2008
Depeche Mode Theme Bar in Tallinn, Estonia
Devoting a bar to a favourite band might be a cracking idea for a really, really popular artist. Perhaps a U2-themed bar in Dublin, or a Red Hot Chili Peppers pub in California? Heck, even an AC/DC pub in Sydney would probably go down a treat. But a bar entirely devoted to Depeche Mode in the Baltics? Erm...
Never let it be said that the owners of Tallinn’s DM Baar haven't gone the whole hog though. For the undoubted millions of Estonians who just love, um, whatever great songs Depeche Mode happened to do, there is a whole host of memorabilia strung up along the walls. This includes a picture of a distinctly non-plussed member of the band in the bar, probably more frightened than he's ever been in his entire life.
Oh yes, and you'll not need two guesses to work out the music policy. Non-stop Mode hits until closing time...
The clientele tends to be an odd mix of raving, foaming-at-the-mouth Depeche Mode fans, curious tourists and locals who appear to be completely oblivious to what it’s all about.
Getting to the DM Baar in Tallinn, Estonia
Nearest international airport: Tallinn
Using public transport: The DM Baar is in the Old Town, and thus it’s probably going to be easier to walk if staying centrally.
More information: DM Baar website (for the fluent Estonian speakers amongst us)
Never let it be said that the owners of Tallinn’s DM Baar haven't gone the whole hog though. For the undoubted millions of Estonians who just love, um, whatever great songs Depeche Mode happened to do, there is a whole host of memorabilia strung up along the walls. This includes a picture of a distinctly non-plussed member of the band in the bar, probably more frightened than he's ever been in his entire life.
Oh yes, and you'll not need two guesses to work out the music policy. Non-stop Mode hits until closing time...
The clientele tends to be an odd mix of raving, foaming-at-the-mouth Depeche Mode fans, curious tourists and locals who appear to be completely oblivious to what it’s all about.
Getting to the DM Baar in Tallinn, Estonia
Nearest international airport: Tallinn
Using public transport: The DM Baar is in the Old Town, and thus it’s probably going to be easier to walk if staying centrally.
More information: DM Baar website (for the fluent Estonian speakers amongst us)
Wednesday, 20 August 2008
World's biggest wine collection
The biggest wine collection in the world can be found in the former Soviet Republic of Moldova. Just remember to bring some cash if you decide to go.
I had a bit of a disaster on my trip to Moldova in April 2008. I lost my Visa bank card in Lithuania beforehand, and couldn’t withdraw any cash on my credit card from the ATMs in Chisinau for some reason.
This meant I was down to approximately EUR100 for three days, including accommodation, train and taxi fares.
After a bit of shouting down the phone at my bank and a fair amount of despair in one of the grimmest Soviet-era hotels imaginable, I realised that I had absolutely no chance of getting to the one place I wanted to get to.
Milestii Mici is the world’s biggest winery. And that’s not just the promotional blurb from the people that run it – it’s recognised by Guinness World Records. Apparently, over 1.5 million (conservative estimate) bottles of wine are stored there in a 200km network of ‘streets’.
Unlike other wine tours where you are driven around a series of wineries, you need a car to get round just the one winery.
Alas, I was foiled, so if anyone has been to Milestii Mici, I’d be interested to hear from you. Apparently it’s not just quantity either – the wines are reportedly amongst the best in the old Soviet Union.
More information: Milestii Mici website
I had a bit of a disaster on my trip to Moldova in April 2008. I lost my Visa bank card in Lithuania beforehand, and couldn’t withdraw any cash on my credit card from the ATMs in Chisinau for some reason.
This meant I was down to approximately EUR100 for three days, including accommodation, train and taxi fares.
After a bit of shouting down the phone at my bank and a fair amount of despair in one of the grimmest Soviet-era hotels imaginable, I realised that I had absolutely no chance of getting to the one place I wanted to get to.
Milestii Mici is the world’s biggest winery. And that’s not just the promotional blurb from the people that run it – it’s recognised by Guinness World Records. Apparently, over 1.5 million (conservative estimate) bottles of wine are stored there in a 200km network of ‘streets’.
Unlike other wine tours where you are driven around a series of wineries, you need a car to get round just the one winery.
Alas, I was foiled, so if anyone has been to Milestii Mici, I’d be interested to hear from you. Apparently it’s not just quantity either – the wines are reportedly amongst the best in the old Soviet Union.
More information: Milestii Mici website
Tuesday, 19 August 2008
The World’s Scariest Beach – Sint Maarten, Caribbean
Extreme bronzing on Sint Maarten
Maho Beach on the Caribbean island of Sint Maartin has to be the least relaxing stretch of sand in the world. In fact, it manages to turn sunbaking into something of an adrenalin sport.
Most people who attempt to catch some rays on the beach place their towels on the far left or far right hand side. Don’t be tempted to opt for the spare spot in the middle though – that’s where the planes fly over.
Juliana International Airport
The beach is a very narrow strip. This is followed by a very narrow road. And that is followed by a great big runway. Yup, what makes Maho Beach so ‘interesting’ is that every few minutes, a plane lands at Juliana International Airport. It’s one of the biggest and busiest hubs in the Caribbean, and the planes fly so low over the beach that any minor misjudgement could see the landing gear dragging through the sand.
Jet blast warning signs
Maho is probably the only beach in the world with such a dire warning sign. Forget sharks and strong currents - the notices have a simple, stark message. “Jet blast of departing and arriving aircraft can cause severe physical harm resulting in extreme bodily harm and/or death.” Nice.
As the locals say, a pebble caught by that jet blast may as well be a bullet.
Sunset Beach Bar
It’s undeniably cool, though, especially when the huge Air France jumbo comes into land. Luckily you don’t have to be on the beach itself. Right next to it is the Sunset Beach Bar, which is something of an institution. It has top burgers, cheap-ish drinks and a party vibe.
More importantly, though, it makes an excellent viewing platform. The sunsets here are awesome, but watching the planes come in is even better. They look like they’re coming straight at you – especially at night when you can only see the lights – before diverting away at the very last second.
And that requires a stiff drink or eight...
Maho Beach on the Caribbean island of Sint Maartin has to be the least relaxing stretch of sand in the world. In fact, it manages to turn sunbaking into something of an adrenalin sport.
Most people who attempt to catch some rays on the beach place their towels on the far left or far right hand side. Don’t be tempted to opt for the spare spot in the middle though – that’s where the planes fly over.
Juliana International Airport
The beach is a very narrow strip. This is followed by a very narrow road. And that is followed by a great big runway. Yup, what makes Maho Beach so ‘interesting’ is that every few minutes, a plane lands at Juliana International Airport. It’s one of the biggest and busiest hubs in the Caribbean, and the planes fly so low over the beach that any minor misjudgement could see the landing gear dragging through the sand.
Jet blast warning signs
Maho is probably the only beach in the world with such a dire warning sign. Forget sharks and strong currents - the notices have a simple, stark message. “Jet blast of departing and arriving aircraft can cause severe physical harm resulting in extreme bodily harm and/or death.” Nice.
As the locals say, a pebble caught by that jet blast may as well be a bullet.
Sunset Beach Bar
It’s undeniably cool, though, especially when the huge Air France jumbo comes into land. Luckily you don’t have to be on the beach itself. Right next to it is the Sunset Beach Bar, which is something of an institution. It has top burgers, cheap-ish drinks and a party vibe.
More importantly, though, it makes an excellent viewing platform. The sunsets here are awesome, but watching the planes come in is even better. They look like they’re coming straight at you – especially at night when you can only see the lights – before diverting away at the very last second.
And that requires a stiff drink or eight...
Monday, 18 August 2008
The Pub With No Beer in Taylor’s Arm, New South Wales, Australia
Made famous by legendary Australian singer Slim Dusty, this hostelry no longer lives up to its name.
The Pub With No Beer, near Kempsey, New South Wales, now has plenty of beer. It even has its own brewery.
Local songwriter Gordon Parsons immortalised what used to be known as the Cosmopolitan Hotel when it allegedly went dry back in the 1950s. The song was recorded by Slim Dusty, and the rest is history. And, boy, have the owners cashed in on the good PR.
The Pub With No Beer now has accommodation, live entertainment and the sort of fancy bistro menu that doesn’t really fit the Dusty image.
But before the trades descriptions people come a-knocking, where better to toast Australia Day with a cold one in hand, a band playing classics in the background and good old-fashioned Aussie tucker on the menu?
More information: Pub With No Beer
The Pub With No Beer, near Kempsey, New South Wales, now has plenty of beer. It even has its own brewery.
Local songwriter Gordon Parsons immortalised what used to be known as the Cosmopolitan Hotel when it allegedly went dry back in the 1950s. The song was recorded by Slim Dusty, and the rest is history. And, boy, have the owners cashed in on the good PR.
The Pub With No Beer now has accommodation, live entertainment and the sort of fancy bistro menu that doesn’t really fit the Dusty image.
But before the trades descriptions people come a-knocking, where better to toast Australia Day with a cold one in hand, a band playing classics in the background and good old-fashioned Aussie tucker on the menu?
More information: Pub With No Beer
Saturday, 2 August 2008
Eat rotten shark (hakarl) in Reykjavik, Iceland
Hakarl, apparently, is an Icelandic speciality, and it sounds absolutely revolting. Essentially it is putrefied shark, which is buried and rotted for three months in order to make it vaguely digestible. I can tell you’re all salivating now, aren’t you?
I went to Iceland in May 2008 for a few days, half with the intention of trying some hakarl. I never did in the end, but I have my excuses:
1. I only had a day in Reykjavik and couldn’t find anywhere that served it.
2. After eating puffin and whale on the same trip, I had more than adequately filled the dodgy meat quota.
3. I’ve already eaten shark (in Crown Point, Tobago), so I don’t need to eat hakarl in order to tick it off my childish list of animals consumed.
Monday, 28 July 2008
Eat puffin in Reykjavik, Iceland - Laekjarbrekka restaurant
Puffins are possibly the cutest birds on the planet, with their multi-coloured beaks and sad, doleful eyes. But in Iceland, they eat them, and any visitor with a heart of stone can savour the local favourite.
A lovely – if tear-jerkingly expensive – restaurant in which to dine on puffin is Laekjarbrekka on Bankastraeti in Reykjavik. It’s a classy joint, complete with pianist playing through the meal, and its housed in one of Reykjavik’s oldest buildings.
More importantly, however, one of its special menus is the Puffin Feast - as seen on Gordon Ramsay's 'The F Word' on July 29th, 2008.
For this, the starter is a fresh salad with smoked and marinated puffin, which is followed up by a main of puffin with brennivín sauce.
Bizarrely, they meat tastes rather different in each one. In the starter it’s cold, and has a texture like calf liver mixed with a fairly strong, salty aftertaste.
The brennivín is a special Icelandic drink –it means burnt wine and tastes foul as a shot, but works really well in the sauce. It has the effect of masking the taste of the puffin a little bit, but in the main course the aftertaste is a little stronger. And, according to some, not particularly nice.
Be warned though – Laekjarbrekka is an expensive restaurant, and visitors that suddenly decide they don’t enjoy the taste of puffin are likely to be left crying into their wallet.
Getting to Laekjarbrekka Restaurant in Reykjavik
Nearest international airport: Reykjavik has its own central airport for domestic flights, but nearly all international flights land at Keflavik, about 45 minutes drive or bus transfer away.
Using public transport: If staying in central Reykjavik, Laekjarbrekka is in walking distance.
More information: Laekjarbrekka restaurant
A lovely – if tear-jerkingly expensive – restaurant in which to dine on puffin is Laekjarbrekka on Bankastraeti in Reykjavik. It’s a classy joint, complete with pianist playing through the meal, and its housed in one of Reykjavik’s oldest buildings.
More importantly, however, one of its special menus is the Puffin Feast - as seen on Gordon Ramsay's 'The F Word' on July 29th, 2008.
For this, the starter is a fresh salad with smoked and marinated puffin, which is followed up by a main of puffin with brennivín sauce.
Bizarrely, they meat tastes rather different in each one. In the starter it’s cold, and has a texture like calf liver mixed with a fairly strong, salty aftertaste.
The brennivín is a special Icelandic drink –it means burnt wine and tastes foul as a shot, but works really well in the sauce. It has the effect of masking the taste of the puffin a little bit, but in the main course the aftertaste is a little stronger. And, according to some, not particularly nice.
Be warned though – Laekjarbrekka is an expensive restaurant, and visitors that suddenly decide they don’t enjoy the taste of puffin are likely to be left crying into their wallet.
Getting to Laekjarbrekka Restaurant in Reykjavik
Nearest international airport: Reykjavik has its own central airport for domestic flights, but nearly all international flights land at Keflavik, about 45 minutes drive or bus transfer away.
Using public transport: If staying in central Reykjavik, Laekjarbrekka is in walking distance.
More information: Laekjarbrekka restaurant
Friday, 25 July 2008
Eat whale burger in Reykjavik, Iceland - Geysir Bistro and Bar
Iceland is one of the few countries in the world that thinks chasing down whales with big harpoons is perfectly OK – not a popular viewpoint in the rest of the world.
Therefore, there’s something a little bit wrong about seeking your teeth into a whale burger. But some of us are going to hell anyway, so why not give it a go if you’re in Reykjavik, the Icelandic capital?
The Geysir Bistro and Bar is one of the few places in Reykjavik where the ordinary mortal can afford to eat without taking out a bank loan, and it’s rather nice. It’s a laid back, modern-style bar, with cute touches in the lighting and wooden pillars.
But for the bad people, the most important thing is that it serves a whale burger with lobster mayonnaise.
Obviously, it’s not a whole whale, but the meat looks rather like a steak. More horse-meat than prime rump cow, though.
And it’s what some would call an “acquired taste”. The burger is very chewy and packs a hefty meaty bang. The problem comes with the aftertaste – it’s overly salty and bordering on pungent. To be honest, it’s a battle to get through it, even for someone who loves trying out new meat.
The campaign to keep the whaling ban starts here...
Getting to the Geysir Bistro and Bar in Reykjavik
Nearest international airport: Keflavik International Airport is approximately 45 minutes away from Reykjavik by car or bus transfer.
Using public transport: For those staying in central Reykjavik, none is necessary – it’s in walking distance. The address is 2 Adalstraeti – it’s in the same building as the Tourist Information Centre.
More information: Geysir Bistro Bar
Therefore, there’s something a little bit wrong about seeking your teeth into a whale burger. But some of us are going to hell anyway, so why not give it a go if you’re in Reykjavik, the Icelandic capital?
The Geysir Bistro and Bar is one of the few places in Reykjavik where the ordinary mortal can afford to eat without taking out a bank loan, and it’s rather nice. It’s a laid back, modern-style bar, with cute touches in the lighting and wooden pillars.
But for the bad people, the most important thing is that it serves a whale burger with lobster mayonnaise.
Obviously, it’s not a whole whale, but the meat looks rather like a steak. More horse-meat than prime rump cow, though.
And it’s what some would call an “acquired taste”. The burger is very chewy and packs a hefty meaty bang. The problem comes with the aftertaste – it’s overly salty and bordering on pungent. To be honest, it’s a battle to get through it, even for someone who loves trying out new meat.
The campaign to keep the whaling ban starts here...
Getting to the Geysir Bistro and Bar in Reykjavik
Nearest international airport: Keflavik International Airport is approximately 45 minutes away from Reykjavik by car or bus transfer.
Using public transport: For those staying in central Reykjavik, none is necessary – it’s in walking distance. The address is 2 Adalstraeti – it’s in the same building as the Tourist Information Centre.
More information: Geysir Bistro Bar
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